Beeftro – restaurant review

9 Mar
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Beeftro’s hunks of perfectly seared cow make me feel warm and cosy inside.

As the newest sibling of the stylish Beefbar group, it’s no surprise that Beeftro delivers on both food and place. They’ve done a serious job on decor despite the rather uninspiring location of Dundrum Town Centre. The typography on the window is modern with a distinctly retro feel. The interior is all white tile, exposed brick, and chunky dark wood partitions and distressed leather booths. It feels like a cross between a french subway station and New York steakhouse, there is an overt maleness to the whole thing.  The air hangs heavy with smell of smoke and meat, the kind that brings your primal urges to the fore. I imagine this is how cavemen felt when they cornered their prey.

The menu is as it should be, short and simple but utterly enticing. We forgo starters with great difficulty. Pork ribs with pomegranate molasses , boudin blanc with apple and crackling, and truffle and mixed mushroom croquettes with Pont l’Eveque dip are all worthy choices but perhaps not before you tuck into a slab of protein. Both rib-eyes arrive perfectly cooked, rare and medium rare. The smokey, crisped exterior gives way to rosy flesh rippled with creamy fat. I assume it’s grass-fed beef but has the buttery soft texture of beef from grain fed cattle. The copper pot of truffle mash, whipped up with so much dairy you could spread it on toast, perfectly compliments the mineral rich salty beef. The only low point was the marrow melt sauce, which was more salt than marrow, but that’s nit-picking. This meat needs no sauce. My arteries welcome the side of broccoli, which is unremarkable but this place is all about the steak.

We share the Pear and cinnamon sponge cake with vanilla mascarpone ice cream. The sticky sweet pears laced with cinnamon are perfectly balanced with the buttery light sponge and not too sweet ice cream. This kitchen is clearly very talented.

We finish a bottle of the Tempranillo, which is perfectly reasonable at 25 quid, head into the cold night in a comforting meat coma. I want to come back to Beeftro very soon.

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